Samsung forum: Samsung Syncmaster 2333- no response/ blinking blue light

Thank you very much for your reply!
No recent updates to drivers that I know of. I have a Mac, and I did load a security update last week...otherwise, not sure. I tried the monitor out on a couple of other computers (PCs), and still got the same results: no response/blinking blue out of the monitor.
The monitor is detected by my computer, it just won't engage.
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I purchased a samsung Syncmaster 2232 BW plus online as a refurbished item, CHEAP!! I went almost 10 months, no problems. Then a month ago this flickering starts out of no where. then last night it died, except for the power button. I found this online:

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.

Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too.