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Peripherals: HP Pavilion F1703 TFT Monitor Blackout

by germansal - 2/6/05 6:30 AM
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Post 211 of 396

HP F1503 Monitor Blackout

by hombrerojog - 12/27/05 5:31 PM In reply to: How to repair the F1503 Monitor by Hotdog911

Has anyone else had any luck with repairing a blacked out F1503 monitor? I have no problem taking mine apart but I can't locate any faulty solder points (I'm not sure I know what to look for - any tips?). Also, several messages mention the inductors but I'm not sure which they are... on my power board there are four copper wire coils around a black plastic base... are they the ones? Does anyone have a picture of the 1503 power board to help locate the faulty points, the same way as the link to the site with the picture of the 1703 power board was posted?

All help very welcome. My monitor is quite old (over 3 years) but would rather repair it than buy another.

Thanks.

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Post 212 of 396

1503 monitor problem

by ff107 - 9/3/06 6:43 PM In reply to: HP F1503 Monitor Blackout by hombrerojog

did u have any luck repairing your monitor. I have mine apart but don't know what to look for to resolder.

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Post 213 of 396

hp pavillion f1703 monitor going blank

by bayhoecott - 10/27/06 10:00 AM In reply to: How to repair the F1503 Monitor by Hotdog911

Taking out the power board from my defective F1703 and resoldering the four toroidal coils fixed the problem.
That is screen going blank usually after 2 seconds.
Tip use a stanley knife or smaller and scrape gently the solder just slightly below where the wire enters the tiny solder bubble. Do this on all four round coils.(2 wires on each 8 in all) Then with the board tilted upwards apply a small amount of solder with your iron for 3 to 4 seconds. I used a magnifier whilst examing the board and the final soldering. If you feel you are not up to it get a friend who has some electronic/radio/soldering experience to do it for you it only takes less than 40 minutes. The front bezel can be removed by prising with a screwdriver at the top left. Take out the two rubber plugs at back to get at the stand screws these need to be removed.Remove panel screws plus interface cable nuts and screws holding metal shield . Bend clips on shield also to get
metal shield off. There are four screws to remove board plus 4 plugs on right. Make sure you note where they go. Board can then be pulled out sideways from its socket (usually black)I wish all fixes where this easy.Eureka !!!

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Post 214 of 396

hp Pavilion 1503 Issues

by namakins - 10/27/06 4:11 PM In reply to: hp pavillion f1703 monitor going blank by bayhoecott

Anything new on the blackout issues with the 15" version of this monitor? My monitor went "bad" right after the warranty expired, but I don't see anything on HP's website that addresses this issue.

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Post 215 of 396

F1703 Repair tips

by Randyincv - 4/24/09 3:53 PM In reply to: hp pavillion f1703 monitor going blank by bayhoecott

OK I have a few comments about the F1703 Monitor. About 70% of what HP sells is outsourced, meaning someone else in Asia Makes it for HP and HP sells it. They are not alone, Dell and all of the other manufacturers are the same. Every computer company has products that develop similar faults, so saying one company is better than the other is a fallacy. I deal with people that swear they'll never send Dell another Penny also, so no company is immune. I work in the industry, so believe me I know. It's a sad reality. The HP F1503/F1703/F1903 monitors all suffer from a couple of different problems. It's been my experience that it is NOT, software, drivers or refresh rates, etc. This has been strictly a hardware problem. The Inverter power supply fails that provides high voltage to the 4 cold cathode fluorescent tubes that surround the LCD. The 4 Toroid coils on that board were hand soldered with inferior solder, I've seen this TOO many times coming from Asia. I have reworked several of these monitors, I TOTALLY remove the solder (with Solderwick) on the 8 connection points for these toroids, rather than just add solder to it, scraping the wire on the toroids where it protrudes through the circuit board after solder removal also ensures a better connection, take it down until you see copper. Make sure you don't leave any scrapings on the board. This ensures that you have a solid electrical connection and the enamel on the copper wire is removed. Resolder all 8 connections using fresh, high quality rosin solder. Use a lighted magnifier and look for other "cold" solder joints that are dull grey and have no shine to them, remove the old solder and replace all of these joints with fresh high quality solder. I also like to replace the 4 driver transistors 2SC5706 (C5706) (about $1 apiece you can buy them on EBay.) If you do all of this it should fix the problem the majority of the time. If you still have the "comes on and then goes right back off" issue, replace the AC Adapter. I DO NOT recommend buying an "aftermarket" version, they're not robust and tend to fail if you have power spikes. I replaced the AC Adapter with ones from an HP L1800 LCD Monitor. The adapter puts out over 5 Amps of current. The part number is PSCV700101A (Dell uses the same Model number.) It's from the same vendor. Once I redid the solder, replaced the transistors and replaced the AC Adapter I've had zero problems with the 5 or 6 of these monitors that I've rebuilt. This is a job for technicians with some component level skills. It's unfortunate that whoever the sourcing vendor for this monitor didn't use better solder in the first place. I wonder how much business HP lost over this issue. It would be hard to determine how many of these monitors have been discarded that could have been repaired, the whole thing saddens me that we've devolved into such a "disposable society". If you have any questions about this repair, feel free to contact me. When this monitor works it works very well, is bright, and has a remarakably clear image.

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Post 216 of 396

oh my, it worked!!

by leat0n - 4/19/06 2:01 PM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

I did what you said, and it worked great!!!
I didnt take any solder off just add a little . worked fine. So dont bother sending your flat screen
to hp, just follow the instructions. Thanks again
Dave

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Post 217 of 396

Amazing!!

by CharlesDuFarle - 4/24/06 7:47 AM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

Brother you are the man! I followed this tutorial exactly and now this monitor works perfect. I found this monitor in the garbage and since I have a f1503 i tried the P/S on it and thats how i found out it was doing the "Blackout" thing. Therefore once I found this post i quickly disassembled and resoldered. Thats it!

Thanx again!
xellaphan

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Post 218 of 396

(YOU CAN) Repair the F1703 Monitor - And save a bundle

by djl3779 - 5/7/06 9:38 PM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

All the problems about the shutdown screen of the HP F1703 -F1705 monitors apply to the TATUNG monitor made by HP (Or maybe TATUNG makes it for HP, who knows!)
REF:-http://reviews.cnet.com/5208-7590-0.html?forumID=67&threadID=62739&messageID=1220590.
Any which way, when you have a problem of blackout IT IS A BAD SOLDER JOINT on the power inverter board.
It will take some skill with an ultra-fine solder tool and the finest solder you can buy for SMT boards. (If you don't have any email me and I will send you a 4' coil for $5.00).
The trick is to remove the screen bezel without breaking the locking tabs. Its best to start on the bottom of the monitor. Work with a fine narrow bladed spatula or large blade X-Acto knife. Pry off one clip, starting in the center and working with a small flat blade screwdriver, slide along the bottom working the screwdriver into each snap and the flat blade to hold the plastic opened just enough to work around. Do both sides and the top should just pop off with a gentle smack of your hand.
Once inside, remove carefully all frame monitor screws, the monitor cable connector posts, and carefully pry off all multi-pin connectors. Turn over entire ass'y with one hand holding the screen and the other remove the plastic case. You don't want to crack the LCD at this point so lay it down on a towel or soe=mething soft. remove the chrome cover (2 machine screws, tap down it comes free) Then get to each connector by removing any foil tape. Gently lift each connector using a stiff pen-knife or flat bladed tool designed for these connectors.(Do not bend any pins) Its best to mark the return position with a black marker so the polarity remains the same. No force should be required when replacing. Remove all eight screws holding the main circuit board and inverter board. Remove the four 2-prong connectors on the side of the inverter (Mark carefully numbering which sockets they go back into)
Inspect under a lighted magnifier for any COLD joints. If found or suspected. re-solder CAREFULLY. Avoid if at all possible the tiniest SMT components as these are extremely difficult to re-solder or replace. Stick to the 2 tiny yellow coils, the 4 torroid coils (Just a ring with solid copper witre around it) and the two large driver coils. unsolder if you can using a solder-wick or 'sucker'. Resolder carefully and fully being sure solder is almost flowing to the reverse side of the board. If the two tiny yellow coils are removed they should have a resistance of approx 130 MOhms and they are returned in the same polarity as removed.(the board should be marked) To be sure SWAP their positions on the board (top to bottom, and bottom to top). After carefully re-inspecting all remaining joints and your solder repairs re-assemble in the same order as removed.
Presto - your monitor will work - like new.
If the above instructions didn't work, you either butchered your monitor because you didn't have the skill to work on circuit boards or you can use your monitor for an anchor - because that was never the problem. Good luck
(Any solder coil payments are made to Paypal @syben@suncoin.com) email me in advance
Syd

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Post 219 of 396

Another happy f1703 owner!

by Beum - 11/25/06 2:45 AM In reply to: (YOU CAN) Repair the F1703 Monitor - And save a bundle by djl3779

My f1703 worked fine for more than two years but finally broke down, of course, after the extended warranty period was over.

I must admit, I was a bit reluctant to start messing around inside a $500 monitor even after being dissappointed by the HP Customer service department.
But finally I decided to give it a try. I followed these instructions. In my case it was only one joint. Can you believe it? And it was quite easy to identify it, indeed on one of the coils..

See also http://www.lesliewong.us/blog/2005/05/02/hp-pavilion-f1703-flat-panel-display-blackout-solution/ for some good pictures of what to do after removing the cover.

By investing only $10 in a soldering iron and one Saturday morning I saved $500 for a new monitor.

Good luck to all others facing the same symptoms!

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Post 220 of 396

F1503 resolder job worked..Thank you.

by madcapmel - 6/12/06 1:46 PM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

Thanks for the information.

I resoldered the connections and now the monitor works.



Thanks you so much!

Dan

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Post 221 of 396

Thank-you

by depotwest - 7/22/06 11:04 PM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

HP = Highly Pathetic.

I called HP and talked with a guy who had an American/English name and a VERY heavy Indian accent. I inquired about an f1703 monitor that was blanking out after being on for about 10 seconds. He could only tell me that the screen was out of warranty (which I already knew) and he could sell me a new one. I told him I did not want a new I wanted a means to fix this one. I asked him to tell me what the problem was and if he could tell me how to fix it or sell me the part to replace. His answer; "We don't know what is wrong, except, it is a manufacturing defect." Poor Highly Pathetic! They know it's broke, but they don't know how/why.

I appreciate greatly this post and these simple instructions. Perhaps, LH-UK-TECH should work for HP and raise their level of competence.

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Post 222 of 396

THANK YOU!

by guitarman416 - 9/29/06 6:49 AM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

I've been fighting with my F1703 monitor on and off for the past few months thinking that a power surge that took out my XP install also did some damage to the monitor. Just a few days ago, it seemed to up and die. Frustrated and thinking that the inverter had finally given out, I ordered a replacement.

I later started researching the repair-ability and availability of a replacement inverter for my 1703 when I happened upon this thread. Unfortunately, I discoverd that I'm two months outside of getting HP to repair/ replace it, but the instructions on this forum regarding the re-soldering of the inductors did the trick!

Thanks for this thread!

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Post 223 of 396

Pavillion 1503 Black out problem

by adzaburnz - 1/12/08 8:58 AM In reply to: How to repair the F1703 Monitor by LH-UK-TECH

Unbelivable. I followed the instructions word for word and did not have a problem. Went looking for the breaks in the soldering but they seemed fine even after vigorously studying them for at least 10 mins. I decided to just reheat the old solder spots for 3 to 4 seconds each as instructed. I then put it all back together just hoping it would make a difference. Despite being a bit of a novice at this sort of repair it was incredibly easy. I then hooked it up turned it on and was amazed, good as new!!!
Thank you very much LH-UK-TECH, you saved me a few hundred dollars.
Screw those F***EN HP dogs!!!

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Post 224 of 396

gromit's fix worked!

by GTO Judge - 1/15/08 8:20 AM In reply to: Pavillion 1503 Black out problem by adzaburnz

I had an f1703 monitor given to me by my brother (he said that it didn't work). Just for the heck of it, I looked up "HP pavilion f1703 problems" and happened upon this thread. It took me only about 20 minutes to fix it and it is working great!

Thanks to gromit588 and lewong:)

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Post 225 of 396

hp f1703 LH-UK-TECH fix worked

by javcatcher - 1/19/08 7:06 PM In reply to: Pavillion 1503 Black out problem by adzaburnz

The information that was posted how to repair the F1703 Monitor has given me another computer back in the house. I went around with HP and was basically told it would cost to fix their screw up. When CNET sent me an e-mail last week, I went and dug the monitor out of my garage and tore into per the instructions from LH-UK-TECH. The step by step were easy to follow. However, I had to wing it because the small coils were not in yellow casings, but they were the only copper coils, 4 of them. I have never used my solder iron and the tip I had was probably to big, but I have a monitor connected to a computer instead of collecting dust in my garage, 7 months it hads been sitting. Thanks a ton and I agree with adzaburnz, HP needs to back their product more.

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