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Are there any decent in wall powered-sub woofers?
... quite honestly, I don't have enough experience with them to recommend one brand over another. Sorry.
How important is matching of speakers in a 5.1 setup. I have some old and big Marantz speakers that I would like to use front L and R speakers and smaller center and rear speakers.
Since old speakers also had "woofers" built-in, would it eliminate the need for a separate sub-woofer?
It's certainly possible to mix and match different sizes and brands of speakers, but using matching loudspeakers is generally preferred. As for the woofers--if they're truly subwoofer replacements, you can get away without a dedicated sub. That's the idea, for instance, w/ this Aperion setup:
http://reviews.cnet.com/surround-speaker-systems/aperion-intimus-533-pt/4505-7868_7-31829150.html
In response to the previous question on multi-zone, I have taken the signal from the home theater and used older (retired) A/V receivers to get sound in other rooms. It seems to have worked well without losing control in each room.
Using old receivers to amp up the sound in additional rooms works well, but another big challenge with multi-room setups is remote control access, source switching, and source control. It's fairly easy to get music throughout the house--but if you want to change CDs, switch to satellite radio, and so forth, you'll probably need an advanced RF remote system, at the very least--or you'll be stuck heading back to the main room to change things.
My wife cannot stand the sight of wires currently running under our area rug to my rear speakers! Can you recommend some decent sounding wireless rear speakers?
The options for wireless rear speakers have really exploded in recent months. Next week, we'll be posting our review of the KEF wireless system--it works great, but it's $600. But we'll also be looking at the Rocketfish ($100) rear speaker wireless system in July. Also, almost every HTIB manufacturer now offers a proprietary add-on for their respective systems, so if you have a recent Sony/Panasonic/Samsung/etc. home theater system, you might want to check for compatible wireless accessories.
One caveat, though: these all do a great job of eliminating the front-to-back speaker wires, but need additional wiring and power in the back of the room in order to work.
As an audiophile, and avid fan of home theater, are their any high end HD/BR players in the market such as Arcam, Ayre, Classe, that you are aware of.
HD DVD players remain limited to Toshiba, while only mass market manufacturers--Samsung, Sony, Panasonic, LG--are doing Blu-ray. I think the upscale brands are awaiting a winner in the format war before they jump in. BTW, we've reviewed almost every Blu-ray / HD DVD player released to date:
http://reviews.cnet.com/4323-6531_7-6575534.html
I only have a standard cable with no box. And my HDTV tunes in to HDTV programming. Will the HDTV pass 5.1 in this set up?
Thanks for clarifying, p2p. Yes, if your TV is using its internal HD tuner, it *should* output 5.1 (Dolby Digital Surround) to an external AV receiver.
This has always been a big conversation in CNET's community over inexpensive vs. hi-end expensive digital cables (ie. Monster cables).
So my question to you for the community is, when it comes to digital cables (ie. HDMI), does it really make a difference in picture and audio quality, if people were to use a $100+ cables vs. a $20 cable, as long as it is built well? After all isn't digital just digital?
Also outside of digital realm, when does it make a difference to buy quality cables?
Our rule of thumb is pretty much this: generic cables are generally fine for short audio and video runs (less than 6 feet/2 meters), but it's often worth stepping up to premium cables for longer runs (in-wall, to projectors, etc.), or if you want to future-proof your AV system beyond any reasonable doubt (for future higher bandwidth video signals, such as 60 or 120Hz 1080p video). You might want to check out a recent Monster Cable story over at Gizmodo, which adds some more detail to this debate:
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/hdmi-cable-battlemodo/the-truth-about-monster-cable-part-2-268788.php
I'm rehabbing a house in SF and want to add whole-house audio without breaking the bank. I've been thinking of a Yamaha RX-V2700 AV Amp which could give me a home theatre in the family room and multi-room capability for the rest of the house. Would that really work? Or do I need to spring for something like a Speakercraft MZC-66?
Also, for the home theatre, we'd like to go all in-wall and in-ceiling. Any favorites? If I went with low-end Polk's, would that be good enough for casual use?
Using a multi-zone AV receiver (such as the Yamaha) is one way to get multi-room sound in a home, but control and amplification issues could be a real challenge. One "hack" you might consider is going with a Sonos Digital Audio system:
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-audio-receivers-dars/sonos-digital-music-system/4505-6470_7-32456945.html?tag=lst
That might help address your need to get multiple audio streams throughout the house (though you won't have total control over the non-Sonos components).
As for speakers: We've never officially tested them, but I've always heard good things about the Polk in-walls.
So then how do you get 5.1 sound from HD programming with 5.1 sound - from an HDTV that is hooked to just standard cable or over-the-air HDTV signal?
If you're pulling in an OTA signal, the TV will probably send the 5.1 sound to a receiver. If the TV signal is first going to a satellite or cable box (what I thought you were originally referring to), I'd suggest going straight from the box to the receiver instead (for audio).
What product/solution has excited you the most this year?
Personally, I prefer the "boring" updates of existing products: new AV receivers with better HDMI and Dolby/DTS lossless decoding support, cheaper and better large-screen TVs.
You just mentioned in your answer that "TV's digital audio outputs don't always pass surround signals very well, so you might lose the surround bitstream w/o a direct connection from source to HTIB"
Wow - I was counting on it!
Is this also true for LCD HDTVs?
Does this apply to matrix surrond or discrete channels like in DolbyDigital 5.1?
Unfortunately, we don't routinely test this issue on the TVs we look at, since we assume folks will be using an AV receiver for the switching tasks. But I know my brother's 40-inch Samsung LCD TV couldn't take the surround bitstream (from HDMI) and pass it to the receiver (via optical out). So, instead, he ended up with the Dolby Digital getting dumbed down to stereo, then matrixed back up to Dolby Pro Logic II. Annoying, to say the least.
Generally, A/V receivers mention THD but HTIB units don't. Is their THD so bad they hide it?
I find that in otherwise similar units, the prices jump sharply for THD of less than 0.1%.
So, how important is THD spec and what is a good number to look for an average listener?
While lower THD is better, it's very hard to verify many of those manufacturer claims. A real-world listener will very often not be able to tell the difference. If you're a true audiophile, I'd definitely recommend going w/ a full AV receiver and dedicated speakers over an HTIB, though--as a rule, AV receivers are going to deliver better sound quality overall than all-in-one home theater units, which are geared towards convenience, design, and ease of use.
What is your preference for audio encoding, (format and bit rate)?
... which delivered better than average quality without sucking up too much of my disk space. In a perfect world, I'd love to go lossless (FLAC), but I prefer the guaranteed compatibility that you get with true MP3s.
I know you do alot with home theater, but I would like you to help me with on the go, as it still has to do with Audio. Is the Bass freq a good choice? Cnet gave it a Editors choice, but what about the quality of the cables.What is your opinion on it. Is Noise canceling good?
... I suspect they fall into the category of "good for the money" (only $40 or less). Personally, I prefer less bass, so I'd probably steer clear--just a personal preference issue. I'm also leery of noise cancelling headphones, because the extra pressure tends to hurt my ears (again, a personal preference).
Do you see a future in the Home Theather PC, it doesn't seem to have found an audience?
HTPCs have a lot to offer for advanced users, but they still have a setup and learning curve that frustrates many, especially in the living room. Also, until the CableCard issues get sorted out, I think most people will gravitate towards dedicated components instead (AV receivers, disc players, game consoles, Apple TV, etc.) rather than PCs.
I'm looking for a cheap 5.1 setup, and it looks like I'm leaning towards a HTIB system. I've done some research and it seems like all you can get are these HTIB's with a million different inputs. All I want it to do is output my PS3/Blu-Ray/PS2/Gamecube, while maintaining the Hi-Def signal. Since my TV is a Sony Bravia KDL42XBR2, and has an audio output, would it work to simply run an audio output from my TV (which has it) into a cheap HTIB system? I suppose I'm not so much into fidelity as I am into being immersed in the game/movie.
This newly announced JVC system has great connectivity, and it's only $300. We'll have a full review in July. Your plan would work, but the TV's digital audio outputs don't always pass surround signals very well, so you might lose the surround bitstream w/o a direct connection from source to HTIB.
So why the difference in terms describing SR605 and SR705 and up? Is it just a typo or a real difference?
Thanks.
That and THX certification--not much else is different.
Do you see any compelling reasons to go with a Denon 4308 over the Onkyo 905?
The Denon 4308 hasn't officially been announced yet, although it's almost certain to be announced in July. Until we get real specs, though, we can't make a judgment on a comparison.
Wil upconversion work on ALL analog video inputs? (S-Video and Composite Video)
The 605 can convert any analog (composite/S-video) input to HDMI output. It can also deinterlace those signals (convert 480i to 480p output via HDMI).
In your review of Onkyo receiver 2007 line-up, you mention "2 HDMI 1.3a
inputs, with HDMI conversion of analog video" for for TX-SR605 but you
describe "3 HDMI 1.3a inputs, with HDMI upconversion" for other higher
models such as TX-SR705. (1) Is there a difference between just "conversion"
and "upconversion" between these models? (2) Upconversion is what
resolutions? Thanks.
Good question. On those models, it's basically just analog to digital video conversion--the picture from 480i is not being upscaled to HD resolutions. BTW, the 605 review is coming next week.
Hey. I have a SDTV with component inputs. I am not sure if it supports 480p. Should I buy the cables, and is the improvement of sound and picture worth it?
If it wasn't billed as an EDTV (enhanced definition), it probably can't support 480p. Using component inputs at 480i could still give you a better picture than S-video, especially on next-gen game consoles and DVD.
Hey. I have a SDTV with component inputs. I am not sure if it supports 480p. Should I buy the cables, and is the improvement of sound and picture worth it?
If it wasn't billed as an EDTV (enhanced definition), it probably can't support 480p. Using component inputs at 480i could still give you a better picture than S-video, especially on next-gen game consoles and DVD.
I have a Playstation 3, the Blu-Ray movies look great, but the sound isn't quite what I think it could be. I have a Sony Surround System with 5.1 Dolby, what would you suggest for audio setup or system that would allow me get the most out of Blu-Ray without forcing me into a life of crime (and possible male prostitution) to pay for it?
The PS3's Blu-ray audio capabilities still aren't fully formed (Sony tweaks it with firmware upgrades), but you should be able to get uncompressed PCM audio via HDMI--try the audio setup menu. (And I'm assuming you have an HDMI AV receiver.)
John Falcone here, ready to answer all of your home audio and home theater questions for the next hour. Thanks for joining us. Fire away!