Movies are 24fps (or 18fps for standard "silent" speed).
The human brain/eye chain can blend images at 8fps without conciously perceiving "flicker". The flicker as a matter of physics (as in 'the laws of ...') does exist and it does have an effect on the human viewer and the perception of the overall quality of the image.
A non-interlaced -- a.k.a., progressive scan -- image will be perceived by a viewer with normal vision as looking "clearer". There actually is twice as much image data being presented to the viewer in each 30th of a second.
In the case of interlaced image, you are mistaken that the frame is a 30th of a second. The full image of two interlaced frames does take about a 30th of a second, but the images presented to the viewer are actually coming at the rate of a 60th of a second. Half the image -- every other line -- in each 60th. The scan goes back and does the other "missing" lines in the next 60th. Two 60th's = one 30th to get the equivalent of the full image.
LCD latency does mitigate flicker a little bit, as does the effect of slow phosphors in tube TV's, but it is still there. Wave your open fingers in front of your TV and you'll see many fingers. If you wave your open fingers at the same speed in front of a progressive scan TV and you'll see about half as many strobed fingers (if any).
Chew flicker will also be apparent with your interlaced TV. If you open your mouth and make a chewing movement with your jaw you'll see your TV image flicker on and off. That's called chew flicker and comes from the interaction of the nerves in your jaw with the optical circuit in your brain. If you try the same thing in front of a TV with progressive scan in operation then you will note that the chew flicker is dramatically reduced or even seems to be gone.
Hope this helps. Anyone with better info on flicker and scan rates please correct my errors.
...can differentiate between 30ms and 60ms frame rates.
You are fooling yourself.
Go look at a digital TV.
Sorry to burst your bubble.
BASTA!
Sorry... but you're wrong on several technical details, which only serves to confuse people. First, there is no such thing as a 1080i LCD projection TV. You have a 720P TV, that's why you don't notice any interlace issues. Also, movies are 24 frames/sec, not 30. 1980p is non-sense, too. Finally, you can not make out the individual pixels on a 720p TV from 10 to 15 feet away. That's just a pure load. If you could, you would certainly notice that on your 720p TV.
The amount of flat out wrong information found in this discussion is really appalling. People, do so research, and if you only listen to one thing on this forum, let it be this: Go to AVS forums for your information, not here. sheesh...
i just purchased one of these for a great price on newegg.com and am very satisified.
if your interested, i have a review over at:
http://tech-recipes.com
peace
seamonkey420
Excellent, though long and techn., i found the article very informative. Thanks, Daniel Facemyer
I noticed in recent ads some of the TV's are advertisied as PC compatable. As I would like to run computer games on this larger screen, does it make a difference which to purchase (ones marked as PC compatible or not)? My computer was purchased right from Dell over a year ago, a Dimension 9100, Windows XP Home, PCIe Nvida 6800 graphics card, 3Ghz and is there anything I need to do on the computer to get this done? Any help or suggestions appreciated. Thank Ed.
Yes, if you want to use a PC with an HDTV, you need to investigate it's PC compatability. It's not enough that it be "PC Compatible", the details can kill you.
An example: The JVC 56FN97 (57" HD-ILA (LCoS) microdisplay projection set) has dual HDMI and also a 15-pin analog VGA interface. JVC says that the HDMI inputs are not PC compatible, but of course the 15-pin VGA input is. But here's the real story:
The 15-pin analog VGA input works fine, but it only supports 640x480 and 1024x768. As far as it goes, that's ok, but obviously those are severe limitations. Windows Media Center often switches to 800x600, which this interface won't display, so you may not even be able to use Media Center with this TV set. And none of these displays is "full screen" on this 1080p 16:9 TV.
Initially connecting a PC to the HDMI ports (using a DVI to HDMI cable) doesn't seem to work (no picture at all). But with some configuration of the resolution and refresh rates, you can get an image from most modern video cards at SOME resolutions. In my testing, I was able to get 1080i to work and produce a functional good image, but the problem is that the set overscans enough that both the task bar and the top row of desktop icons may be off the screen entirely. Additional work with custom resolutions (using something like "Powerstrip") may be able to address this, but it's a lot of work, and when you start Media Center, Media Center changes the resolution on it's own (often to 800x600), thus you may not be able to use Media Center at all with this TV, at least not without even more work (work that may not be possible on some systems).
This set is actually kind of typical of what you can run into, so it's important explore the situation before you buy, and to be prepared for surprises (almost always unpleasant).
I feel that there are a host of other factors to consider while deciding to purchase a new TV besides the technical ones. But, let me say before I go there, I first want to say that with today's fast paced emerging technology I feel that TVs are like underware, they feel good (better than your old CRT set) at first but after a few washings (viewings) you need to replace them because they just don't feel as good (a friend told you he got a 1920p set) and your new/old HD set can't measure up. This thing about all the specifications has gotten out of hand like so many other things. Do you have a HD signal source to really exercise the new HDTV you paid for. Consider when you last got your eye glasses prescription renewed. How large is your room and how far beck will you be viewing. Don't buy something that is too large for your room. I have several friends who bought large TVs and took them back because they were monsters in the room and they were eaten alive in there own homes and returned them for smaller sets. I almost did the same thing. Are your willing to keep throwing money at this new baby with all the new innovations that will be combing out in the next few years like me. I have five almost new HDTV of different kinds. There all great. Finally I chose sets that were highly recommended by CNET's team of very practical reviewer's. I listened to what they said and I have never gone wrong with their advise. Use the posters advise from above it's all valuable. I can't wait to buy a new Lazer set. Ask for more help. Good luck
...by 2010 the average in-home TV size will be 70"
People who get "overwhelmed" by the size of the TV either:
1. Don't really buy into the Home Theater Experience and should stick with a 27" CRT, their loss, or...
2. Did not keep the TV long enough to appreciate it...most vendors give you 30 days to return it...USE THE 30 DAYS!
3. Don't have surround sound, "60% of a movie effect is in the sound" - George Lucas. I guess he knows....
Hi, i live in Paris and am interested in purchasing a new flat screen...i would like at least 50 inches. i have been told that plasma gives the best quality...but am now stuck betwen buying hd ready or full hd...my television cable provider say they will be providing an hd tuner within the next 12 months...i am not a big videogame fan, though my son uses ps 3; do take some videos in hd...? what would you advise and which brand--again, i have been told that pioneer is currently in the best in the wide screen..
thanks barry lando
If it is "PC Compatible" it means:
Either
1. It has a VGA input
or
2. It Has a DVI input
and it has a subsystem to handle pc images.
This is the ONLY thing that LCD is good at...
Whatever, it takes tweaking... and patience
Also the HDTV ready has no tuner on it, I guess it needs a top of th eset box. The signal can be from cable service, satellite, but HDTV local stations transmits digital signal that can be received with the new HDTV antenna. Prices for those antennas are close to the old type of tv antennas. Now, when I was working for a well know company, as a tv tech, there were news that by 2006,. by the FCC, all stations had to go digital. One question would be; that changed, but to what date? What will happen to the old tv sets? (poor people can not afford HDTV's)
If you live in a rural area where you will never receive over-the-air HD signals, or even in urban area but will never use over-the-air signals, an HD Ready set will give you everything you need for less cost. It's silly to pay extra for the HD tuner if you'll never use it.
I use an HD ready Sharp set with DirecTV satellite input, and get an excellent HD picture. It would be the same with a cable connection. An HD ready set would be $100-$300 cheaper than a full HD compatible set, but may be hard to find, especially in the larger sizes.
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