Hello everyone. The sting of high-priced fuel is getting worse, and now more than ever MPG is becoming an important factor in everyday life. So here's some REAL tips on how to save gas.
TIP 1: Don't Drive Like A Street Racer
Simply put, the harder you put your boot down on the gas, the more fuel your engine will use. Also, the higher your engine is running in RPMs, the more fuel it is consuming per second.
Learn how to pull out in traffic without letting your engine rev up to 5,000 RPM or wherever your redline is. This is very important in multi-carburated, turbocharged, and big-engined cars, because the use of fuel goes up tremendously with a step of the gas.
Also, in diesel engines, the throttle controls the fuel flow directly, so learning to use that tremendous torque curve with a touch of the gas is essential.
TIP 2: A/C OFF Unless You Absolutely Need It
You can argue this all day, but the fact remains. When you switch on your A/C, the Compressor is turned by the engine, and it needs a few foot pounds of torque. This means more drag on the engine, more fuel used, and ultimately, can waste up to 5 miles per gallon, even on an 8 cylinder engine. If the day is cool or warm, you can crack your windows if you have to. If it's cold out, you may be able to use body heat to warm up the interior. If it's freezing out, then you may have no choice but to use the heater. That or wear your winter gear!
TIP 3: Try Not To Put Your Windows Down
While the A/C is worse, when driving at high speeds, putting the windows down can increase aerodynamic drag. This will drop your MPG a bit on the highway. For best results, crack the windows intermittently to freshen the air. Do note that at low speeds, there is not enough drag to warrant sweating your brains and bowels out.
TIP 4: Constant, Steady Speeds
When driving on the highway, maintaining exactly one speed is the best way to save gas. If you speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down, up, down, up, down, etc., you are wasting more fuel on the acceleration than what you saved letting off the gas. You are also getting your passengers car sick. If your car has cruise control, go ahead and use it when traffic is light. It will also save your right foot.
Always be anticipating the actions of the drivers ahead of you. If it looks like they are going to slow down, change lanes if you can. Whatever you do, don't frequently tap the brakes. You waste more gas getting back up to speed. Match speeds with the driver ahead instead. Figure out an average if he/she is yo-yoing speeds.
TIP 5: Inflate Your Tires To The Proper Air Pressure!
When your tires run too low on air, the sidewall bows out and the tread flattens on the contact patch. While this adds grip on sand, fine gravel, mud, and snow, it causes your car to "wallow" more on turns, makes it easier to hydroplane, and in extreme cases can actually cause a tread separation! The flexing of the rubber and threads heats up the tire and provides more rolling resistance, which is bad for tire life and fuel economy. Check your tire pressures regularly and inflate them to the recommended level.
TIP 6: Don't Modify Your Gas Engine With Go-Fast Parts
Most people that do this put a performance chip, upgraded intake, exhaust, bigger injectors, etc. bent on getting more power out of their vehicle. Unfortunately, it also means losing gas mileage. By improving air flow, your gas engine has to improve fuel flow to compensate. Guess what that means? You got it! Less gas mileage.
TIP 7: Suspension Alignment Does More Than You Think
I see many people that have cars that need an alignment. They pull to one side, there's too much toe, maybe the camber is off, etc. but they don't want to spend the money to go get it fixed. Instead, they waste money on tires as they wear out unevenly or too quickly. Also, they may be wasting money on fuel. When there is too much toe, the wheels are pointing inwards or outwards to much. While this is good for cornering if set up right, it is bad for straight-line driving. The tire rubs the tarmac slightly sideways, and will increase your rolling drag and tire wear. While there is normally 0.1 deg. or so of toe, when you have 0.4, 0.5, or maybe a whole degree of toe, you have trouble.
TIP 8: High-Wattage Devices Mean Harder Working Engine
When your engine is running, the electrical system is powered by your car's alternator. With the exception of audio systems that draw power from your car's battery, the more stuff you turn on, the more torque the alternator takes from the engine. If you have a high-watt alternator, it can go up a lot when you have everything turned up. The trick here is not to be running a laptop computer on the cigarette lighter with a loud radio on at night when the high beams are on and the Sat Nav is telling you where to go and the kids are watching a movie on the DVD system.
That's all for now. Just a bit more advice. Aside from the A/C, you have to do everything on the list together to gain fuel mileage. Just getting the alignment done or just inflating your tires correctly won't help.
QUOTE: If it's cold out, you may be able to use body heat to warm up the interior. If it's freezing out, then you may have no choice but to use the heater. That or wear your winter gear! UNQUOTE
It's my understanding, that internal combustion engines give off more than 75% of the energy in the form of the heat. This heat has to be dissipated, so it might as well keep the cab warm.
At least in Europe the cab heating is mostly done by using heat from the liquid cooling system, doesn't require any additional gas consumption and actually helps engine run a bit cooler. The exception are cars with winter heaters that burn fuel even when the engine is off, so that the car is warm when you get to it in the morning. Those have to be installed specially and are quite rare, except maybe in northern countries.
Maybe american cars are different, but european cars generally do not use extra gas for heating and there is no need to freeze in your car if you want to save on fuel.
Yes, however, it still takes a significant amount of power from the engine to run the heater.
Timing: I avoid the noon "rush hour". Get it done by 11:00 or wait til 1pm.
Stoplights: There's a string of 5 here; if I time it right I only have to wait at 1. When I'm setting at a light, it's gallons per mile-not miles per gallon.
The heater fan uses a miniscule amount of electricity,not worth counting.When it is bitter cold,I put a portable heater in the floor board for 15 to 30 minutes b4 I walk out the door to go to work. Parking it in the sun also helps.
Car heaters use engine waste heat, using this heat has no effect on fuel econ. The blower does use a little energy, not much. Your best bet at saving gas is anticipating traffic. That is, try not to use the brakes if you can coast along instead. This involves paying attention to what the traffic some distance in front of you is doing. Think of the fuel that you paid dearly for, each time you hit the brakes you are turning the energy provided by that fuel into heat and throwing it away.
don't u know that such wrong advice gets ppl in serious accidents.advice like coast in traffic gets u coasting even through red lights or some stupid stunts like timing the lights.do not consider mileage more than anything ofcourse when u r a good driver u know when u have to use the brakes in a very civilised manner and not lock them up.I also read somewhere do not use the heater or ac;looks like u guys r all forgetting one thing the car is a thing of comfort.if u guys r so much worried abt the fuel prices and the fuel shortage to be anticipated in the future;then go ahead and buy a motorcycle which gives 80mpg.yes it is true it is good to use the engine heat to warm the interior and this should be very easily accomplished in american cars as they have got these huge engines.also use only the blower on the signal lights and ofcourse buy and use navigation devices,they help u in avoiding traffic but soon even that is not going to work as everyone will have one in their car.Listen to radio as they tell where the traffic is most congested.If it is a new area to u be extra careful as u will not the accident spots.Another thing I read somewhere somebody advising to park the car in the sun for the car to heat up - I would not advise as it damages the paint.I would advise all u guys who have normal cars that is non - turbocharged and normally aspirated(i.e. not supercharged) to change the gears at 1/3 of the top rpm ur car can hit at a standstill.If u do not have a tachometer then hear for the engine to scream as soon as the sound rises change the gear.Also keep in mind not to change out of third gear on inclines unless u r hitting the top rpm.for turbocharged cars i would advise their owners to find out at which rpm the turbo kicks in and to change the gear only after the turbo has kicked in otherwise the turbo gets spoilt if not used.also go through the manual of ur car to find out at which rpm do u have maximum torque if possible change gear at that rpm everytime.Well I would advise ppl having supercharged cars to use their suopercharger once in a while say atleast once whenever they take out the car.Such things never let u forget the wonderful car that u have.to enjoy and to save fuel change the gear at 2/3 of the maximum rpm of the car at a standstill.do not die in the heat or cold use the a/c or heater if needed as even the a/c coil and compressor get spoilt if not used and yes I would support the person who said that if u drive with the windows open at top speed not only will the fuel average drop but ur rear windscreen may break also.
I hate to be yet another 'corrector', but you're advice is way too specific and many cases just wrong for 99.9 % of drivers on the road. From your sentence structure and spelling, I'm guessing you don't even live in the U.S. Which is fine, but not the best source of advice for American drivers...
The points listed in the original article are the best advice for actually improving your mileage. And NOT driving like speed racer is easily the most important one. I have a serious need for speed myself as an ex-racer (actually racing on real race tracks) and I believe we could all drive a lot faster and still be safe with a little application of skills, but your mileage will go up dramatically if you follow the driving tips outlined in the article. Steaday speed driving at a reduced speed makes a huge difference on the freeway...
the heater is just a radiator of waste heat.. it blows the fan...
I can't see it using a TON of energy for that.
Want better mileage? Get yourself a Honda Insight. I did back in early 2000 and have never regretted it. I also own a Toyota Prius, but it's a gas guzzler, comparatively speaking. I routinely get over 80 mpg in the Insight; I can seldom get over 60 mpg in the Prius.
Also, maintaining a constant speed, particularly on a freeway, is not optimal. To obtain maximum mileage, you should allow the car to slow down slightly on upgrades and recoup your speed gently on downgrades. Needless to say, you probably shouldn't carry this to extremes; on some downgrades you run the risk of getting tagged by LIDAR, and on some upgrades you don't want to offend drivers behind you to too great an extent, but nevertheless...
Furthermore, many car manufacturers recommend a tire pressure that is lower than optimal in an effort to provide a limousine-like ride quality. This not only impacts the car's mileage but also its handling. In many cases, you can improve not only your car's mileage but its roadholding and handling characteristics by inflating the tires 4-6 lbs. OVER the manufacturer's recommendation, maintaining the same PSI ratio between front and rear. This is not true with all makes and models, so be careful and pay attention. If it reduces traction, go back to the old inflation levels.
I traded a very safe, reliable, versatile, LARGE and HEAVY SUV recently for a very safe, reliable, versatile, yet SMALLER and MORE ECONOMICAL SUV. The former, a 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe LT 4x4 did everything well. It could go off-road. It could haul a BUNCH of people and their stuff. It made a good moving van, camping vehicle, tow platform, kid taxi, grocery getter, business vehicle, rolling office, and many other things. It was however, VERY HEAVY and it GUZZLED GAS. ALL THE TIME. 11 MPG is a fact of life for most owners of these large SUVs. The replacement: A 2006 Chevrolet HHR 2LT. What did I give up? Off road capability. (I used this twice in two years with the Tahoe). The HHR can haul 5 folks, but the rear-middle passenger would probably only want to be there for short trips. In the Tahoe, the same was true! The HHR can haul about 1/4 the amount of "stuff" as the Tahoe. The truth is, I rarely used all the cargo space in the Tahoe. One time it was all used was while moving to our new home. The HHR can be equipped with a trailer hitch, but again, this is a feature I never used on the Tahoe in 2 years of ownership. The HHR has OnStar, built-in cell phone, 911 emergency dialing, front passenger automatic sensing airbag, side curtain air bags, and automatic light-sensing headlights - all safety features that were NOT present on my Tahoe. The HHR is A LOT lighter, and has a very efficient 4-cylinder engine that gets 23 MPG city, 30 MPG highway. It has excellent acceleration (for a DOC 4 cylinder). It reminds me of a Honda Accord 4 cyl. - Smooth and torquey. It does everything well, is quiet, comfortable, nimble, economical, and safe. And it uses plain 'ol GAS. Still widely available. One final note: Contrary to the "overinflate your tires advice" given in the previous post - If you do, you will most likely wear out a fairly expensive set of radials prematurely. It is UNTRUE that car manufacturers deliberately and consistently UNDERINFLATE their tires to improve ride quality.That's a myth. the spend BILLIONS to optimize tire performance and pay CAREFUL attention to tire selection. Car manufacturers recommend the SAME inflation pressures as the tire manufacturers. They EMPHASIZE the fact that you should neither UNDERINFLATE nor OVERINFLATE your tires. Don't believe me? Look at the tire inflation labels on ANY new vehicle to see for yourself. Look in the owner's manuals, and you'll see the SAME recommendations. It's doubtful they're BOTH wrong.
mikeguru,
With all due respect (and your screen name notwithstanding), you are flat-out incorrect about the tire issue. A good illustrative example is the Ford Explorer/Firestone Tire rollover issue.
While Ford blamed the Firestone tires used on its Explorer (rather successfully in the media, I might add), the fact is that Ford, over many years, recommended tire pressures that were 4-8psi less than that recommended by Firestone for the same tires. In fact, Ford now uses tire pressures on its new SUV's that are (at least) 4psi higher than before the lawsuits (though Goodyear is now the beneficiary).
In fact, even though Ford broke with its decades long relationship with Firestone, the Goodyear tire replacements started to experience similar (though very slightly lower) catastrophic failure rates. Due to the Ford recommended tire pressures. Also, later during the class action suit, it came out that Ford specifically lowered the tire pressure below what Firestone had recommended for that tire due to rollover issues found during testing. To make matters worse, in the model year after the media frenzy, Ford made some slight design changes and the Explorers no longer had the rollover problem of the earlier models. This from the company so famously honest for its handling of the Pinto exploding gas tanks. (See the movie ''Class Action'' for a ''Hollywood-ized'' version.)
Contrast this to Firestone's response, in which they accepted full blame for the problems with the tires (from the problematic plant) and offered to replace (for free) any of the problematic Firestone tires, regardless of how much tread was left. Which meant up to 2-3 million tires... regardless of what vehicle they were on.
Back to the topic. This means that the tires were already running ''low'' and with US drivers predeliction for running tires ''underinflated'' (per auto manu. recommendations), it made a bad situation worse. The basic problems with running tires so low is that (1) they build up heat more (in the rubber) because there is not as much air mass to dissipate the heat (which reduces wear resistance, heat breaks down rubber), (2) the tires are forced to flex more, which inherently tries to separate the various tire ply layers (the primary reason for the tire failures in the rollover fatalities), (3) the handling is worse due to sidewall flex (yet another failure point), and (4) the tires are more likely to fail due to severe pot hole impacts (either immediately or through repeated stresses).
Don't get me wrong, Firestone did have some problems with tires from one plant. However, Ford was not passing tire failure information on to Firestone and Firestone has to wait for the NHTSA to pass the info on, which typically takes at least 6-12 months longer, so they did not get the timely information Ford did to see there was a problem. Even so, compared to tire failure rates of even only 10 years previously, the tires failure rate was actually fairly good... and the rollover and failure problem was only significant on Ford Explorers.
Especially with SUV's, auto manufacturers tend to routinely underinflate tire pressures for a number of reasons. One is ride comfort and another is noise. The more the tires are inflated, the harsher the ride and more road noise that is transmitted into the cabin.
Yet another is rollover resistance (especially with the Ford Explorer situation).
I don't have a problem with Ford products, but I do have an issue with their apparent inability to take personal responsibility for their design issues. In fact, I have a tremendous respect for Ford's historical impact on the automotive industry (which would not be as good as it is without FoMoCo, see ''Today and Tomorrow'' by Henry Ford). Which is why its apparent callous disregard for customer safety is so frustrating to me.
Anyway, I use this example to explain that (especially domestic) auto manufacturers optimize for many things, but gas milage, tire durability is typically not one of the considerations. Sure milage is (more) important now, but the vehicles will not sell if the ride is too harsh and it is cheaper to inflate the tires less than build a better tuned suspension.
So, the short answer is that increased tire pressure does indeed improve gas milage, tire wear resistance, load rating (ability to handle higher vehicle weights, such as when loaded down during long family trips), and handling for *radial* tires. Even modern bias ply tires have separate issues I don't have time to address here, which may change how you pressure your tires.
A general rule of thumb for (radial) tire pressures to optimize gas milage, etc. while not (1) pushing the tire's limits in pressure and (2) still keeping ride noise and harshness under control is to split the difference between the auto manufacturer's recommended pressures and the max (cold) pressure rating on the tire sidewall.
Of course, for legal reasons, I would never ''recommend'' that you not follow any of the manufacturer's recommended pressures! However, I may personally choose to not follow those recommendations, though I do not exceed any max pressure limits set by the tire manufacturer. With good information, we, as informed consumers, can make better decisions about what to do.
Even the EPA discusses the importance of ''proper'' tire inflation on gas milage.
Oh, and I should note that much of this information can be Googled and found in old Consumer Reports issues.
I hope that some people find this post of use when trying to understand tire pressure and its influence on the tradeoffs on safety, gas milage, and tire longevity.
As for the utility of changing from an older, larger SUV to a newer, smaller one, it is likely to be a wise move if gas milage is important and you can justify the money. For some people with a paid off car, it is more economical to pay more for gas than to pick up another car note. Though it may not help with the impending oil shortages we are likely to encounter in the coming decades (see http://www.lifeaftertheoilcrash.net/).
I guess that is why Impreza WRX started this thread... ![]()
Scott
PS. Oh, and I do not work for either Ford or Firestone or any subsidiaries or related companies (and never have). I am an operations management ''student'' specializing in quality control.
You're rather wrong about your coasting example.
The best gas mileage is to maintain a single throttle position for the longest duration.
All Fuel injected cars have a throttle position sensor. The onboard computer reads this position and the amount of change over time. If the computer senses that the throttle position changes drastically over a relativly short period of time, the fuel mixture changes to rich (meaning more gas per air) because it is figuring that you are in stop and go traffic and you need the accelleration.
If the computer senses that you do *NOT* change the throttle position over a designated period of time, the computer figures you are driving at highway speeds and will lean out the mixture (less gas per air).
By fluctuating your throttle position while at highway speeds, you are in essence over riding the computers programming and forcing it to run rich at highway speeds, thereby decreasing gas mileage. This technique can easily save 10% or more at the pumps!
Ed
You stated in your response "it still takes a significant amount of power from the engine to run the heater". I beg to differ. Most car heaters have a separate "core" that circulates warm water from the radiator, but only after the thermostat reaches a certain temperature. The air flowing over this "heater core" is then "blended" with the air being circulated by the BLOWER MOTOR, which is electric. Its "loading" factor on the engine is minimal, compared to a belt-driven A/C compressor's "parasitic loss".
You also advise against installing so-called "go-fast" parts in order to save gas. It depends on the device, and you're mistaken in your presumption that all mods that help the engine breathe better also cause it to burn more gas. Most experts agree that an efficiently breathing engine is a more economical engine, when USED PROPERLY. If you improve the air flow, and still stomp on the gas from every light, you will see more power, but also less mileage. If your engine breathes more efficiently and you drive carefully, you WILL see an improvement in mileage as well. Conversely, a supercharger upgrade would add parasitic loss (from the fact that it too is a "belt-driven" device). It would impact mileage slightly, and of course, even more so if you choose to use the "extra power" it provides.
I was referring to more than just optimizing the engine for a leaner fuel/air mix, which is what a free-flowing intake/exhaust and a chip tuner tuning tuner that tunes your chip for economy does. I was mainly referring to bolt-on turbos, superchargers, bored/stroked engine, bigger injectors, etc.
Now, as for Diesel engines, the opposite is true. Since the throttle controls the fuel flow, when you add a bigger turbo, you actually improve fuel mileage in a diesel. This is due to the fact that Diesel engines run fine with extremely lean mixtures. You can do this up near the point where you need bigger fuel injectors. DO note, however, that if you put a chip or a bigger turbo in a TDI Beetle, you are going to eat front tires every two weeks. ![]()
-under 40 mi/hr, open windows and turn off AC
-over 45 mi/hr, close windows and turn on AC
-if you car has been baking under the sun all day, then open the windows for the first 5 miniutes of driving to let hot air out. Then close the windows and resume AC. This cools your car quicker
-avoid excess weight. Take out extra stuff that doesn't need to be in your car. E.g. your camping gear from your trip, luggage from vacation, etc. More weight requires more fuel usage.
-smaller cars generally use less fuel
-keep in mind hybrids can cost $9000 more than comparable non-hybrid models. In some cases, you'd need to drive for 10 years just to get your $$ back
-2 wheel drive uses less fuel than 4 wheel drive
-manual transmission uses less fuel than automatic trans.
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