Community Newsletter: Q&A: 3/11/08 How to setup a wireless network
- 3/10/05 1:20 PM
3/11/08 How to setup a wireless network
by Lee Koo (ADMIN) - 3/10/05 1:20 PM
Happy Friday! Thanks to everyone who submitted your advice to P. Low's (not J. Lo ;)) question. And a huge thank you to Joe and Dana for the incredibly detailed and helpful submissions this week. You guys are awesome!
While many advice from our members do somewhat overlap, please don't undermine another person's advice because they are all great advice. So read through them all. And as always, if you have more questions to ask about wireless networks or have any additional opinions or suggestions, please by all means participate and add to this thread. The more we all can learn about setting up a wireless network, the more individuals who haven't done so yet, will have the motivation and confidence to embark on the path to a life without being tied down with wires.
Thanks everyone! You guys are great!
-Lee Koo
CNET Community
Question:
Question:
I'd like to setup a wireless network connection for my home
PCs (two desktops and two notebooks), all using Windows XP to
share a single Internet ADSL broadband account. How should I
start? What kind of hardware do I need (ADSL modem, router,
switch, wireless card)? What kind of security measures should
I take? Can I limit the usage of this wireless network within
a certain range of IPs? Would there be any conflicts if the
notebooks were to pick up on other wireless networks? Thanks!
Submitted by: P. Low from Penang, Malaysia
(Answer submissions are found in the thread below.)
Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois
by Lee Koo (ADMIN) - 3/10/05 1:23 PM
In reply to: 3/11/08 How to setup a wireless network by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
Answer:
In the modern day, setting up a wireless network is easy, and so is limiting its use, as long as you set it up properly. A well set up wireless network is virtually impossible to hack (and in most cases not worth the effort, unless you're a government installation or bank). Thinking ahead and choosing your hardware and software settings with security in mind can save you a huge headache later on.
Hardware:
First off, decide which wireless standard you want to use. 802.11b, 802.11g, and Pre-N are the major types (in order from oldest to newest). 802.11b is fine for many purposes; 802.11g and Pre-N have advantages in speed and distance, but for a simple ADSL network 802.11b is not significantly different, unless you transfer large files (>1gigabyte) from one computer to another inside your network regularly. Each standard is backwards compatible, also - a computer with a 802.11b card can connect to a 802.11g network. I suggest getting 802.11g, unless the extra money for Pre-N is not a big deal, or you want to save a little money with 802.11b.
Then obtain an ADSL modem (if you don't already have one), a wireless router (aka Base Station) (appropriate to the standard you chose), wireless cards for your various PCs (notebook or desktop as needed), and if your home is larger than about half of the suggested range of the wireless router, any one of several options for wireless signal enhancement, such as a range expander or an external antenna. These should be purchased later if you find that you have significant 'dead areas' of low signal in your home, often caused by the base being on one side of the home rather than in the middle. Also, if the ADSL modem doesn't come with them, you'll have to buy telephone jack splitters for ADSL; otherwise your telephone and ADSL will disagree occasionally. Each telephone should have its own (unless you split the phone line already, in which case just one ADSL splitter is necessary for that one telephone jack); even if the telephone doesn't share a phone jack with the ADSL modem, you still need a line splitter for it. Also, you'll need a normal phone cord to connect the ADSL modem to the line splitter (probably 3-6' will do unless you have some seriously confusing architecture), an ethernet cord to connect the router to your base computer (at least temporarily), another ethernet cord to connect the router to the modem, and a surge protector if you don't have one already for the ADSL modem's power source. Make sure you have an ethernet port in one of your computers (either via a card or onboard); a lot of ADSL modems come with them, as well.
The wireless router chosen should include a firewall if possible. This will allow you to best protect your computers from intrusion over the internet; a software firewall on the PC will help as well, but the router is your first line of defense. Also choose one with WEP encryption, although that is fairly standard. To make the WEP encryption seamless, I recommend choosing wireless cards made by the same company as the router; it is not necessary, as pretty much all companies (PC and Mac alike, even, to most degrees) use the same standards, but they often have convenient encryption setup routines that work best when using the same brand of wireless card.
Wireless cards can either be internal or external. Desktops can benefit from an external wireless 'card', that connects to the USB port, if it is USB2 compliant; it runs just as fast, and can be placed in an area with good reception, while a PCI card often is near the ground and behind a table or something (in the back of the computer) and the electronics in the area can interfere with good reception. Notebooks generally use a PC card adapter, or can also use the USB adapter, although it is often annoying to carry another device along with your notebook, so the PC card is usually the choice for notebooks.
Wireless range expanders and antenna extenders are not hard to find, and pretty universal. You should wait until you've set up your network to get one, so you can test for areas that might need help; if you need one (because your wireless connection strength is <50% or so in parts of your house that you want to use your laptop or desktop), I recommend an antenna for a desktop (as it's not moving anywhere, and the antenna is usually cheaper and more effective) but a range expander for notebook connectivity (as notebooks move all over). An external antenna of any sort will help; some of the more expensive, focussed antennas can help a lot, but usually just the large-piece-of-plastic-with-wires-in-it types work fine. Range expanders often are just repeaters, IE they pick up a wireless signal, and re-broadcast it with greater strength, so if your 'base station' is on the east side of your home, and the west side has poor signal reception, putting a repeater in a spot to the west of your house that has decent reception itself will give the rest of that part of the house great reception, as if they had their own wireless base station.
Setup:
First, set up your ADSL modem per instructions. Often this came directly from the ISP, so follow their instructions to set up your primary computer. The network will be based out of the computer, so I recommend choosing the most central location in the house (for best wireless coverage). But don't drastically change your setup for this; there are many options for increasing range as needed. The ADSL modem will connect to the wall with a phone cord, and a ADSL splitter that cancels telephone noise (see above). It generally uses an ethernet cord to connect to your desktop or notebook computer; to start out you should set it up using this wired connectivity so any settings you need to choose can be easily set up, and if you ever lose your wireless connectivity (it happens sometimes!) or your network connectivity entirely, you can troubleshoot it directly rather than having one more source of errors. Make sure you connect the device in the order you are told by the manual; it is very important.
Then, once you have correct 'wired' functionality, follow the instructions that come with your router to set up the wireless network. Some general tips on initial setup: Usually you start by installing the software, and then connecting the router (although not always). Many routers now have HTTP interfaces to adjust their settings - you plug in a generic IP address, such as 157.0.0.1, into your web browser's URL field, and up comes the settings for your router. Choose a SECURE administrative password!! This is the first step to securing your wireless connection. Also, choose to disallow 'remote' connections to the administrative tools - that way, even if someone hacks your password, they can't change the settings.
Typically, from a hardware point of view, the router connects directly to your ADSL modem, through an ethernet cord, and then (optionally) connects to one or more computers through another ethernet cord. You should connect it to the computer that you set up the ADSL modem with to begin with, so that computer can change administrative settings on the network; if you decide to have a completely wireless network later, that's fine, as long as you fix the settings first.
Settings for the Router:
1. WEP encryption: Active, 64-bit at minimum. At least, if more secure (128-bit, ie) is available, go for it. This is the encryption that protects your wireless connection from being used by others. If you live in a heavily populated area, you'll undoubtedly see several people in your area that don't do this later on when setting up the remote computers; laugh at them and realize you have a safe connection while they're probably giving the whole neighborhood free internet access. The encryption either asks for a "hex" key (0-9 or A,B,C,D,E,F), or a "passkey" (a word that is used to generate a key) depending on the brand. If you use the "passkey", use the same rule you (hopefully) use for passwords - nothing from the dictionary, no names or other things related to you. Write it down - use something like QSNTHOE. Remember it if you don't write it down - you'll have to reset the whole system if you forget it later on. This secures your wireless connection from hijacking over the airwaves.
2. Firewall: The firewall is something you should set based on your usage. A router firewall will basically be a floodgate that you only open up for certain things; it is not as flexible as a desktop software firewall (nor should it be), but it is very powerful. If you play online games, use various protocol for accessing the internet like IRC or GUI chat programs (MSN, Yahoo!, ICQ, AIM, etc.), you will have to "open" the ports they use; each program should be able to tell you that, although it can take some research. Most firewalls will come preset to allow "normal" traffic, and block anything that's not usual; so if you're unusual, you will need to open ports yourself. If you are getting connection errors in some programs but not others, this is probably why. But, that also means that anyone trying to hijack your computer from the internet is also failing. This secures your computer from being hijacked over the internet.
3. Remote Access Settings: This is where you tell the router whether you want to limit the access to specific computers, or to any computer that knows your encryption settings. If you properly set up your WEP encryption, you probably don't need to limit it to specific computers; each time you add a new computer, or have a friend over who wants to use the internet on his laptop, or whatnot, you'd have to add that computer to the system. On the other hand, this is even more secure, if you're really worried about it.
4. Router Internet Access Settings: You will have to set up your router with your logon and password for the ADSL account. (If you were using a cable modem, for example, you wouldn't need this.) Once connected, you will have an 'always-on' connection - the router will maintain the internet connection even if all of your computers are asleep. (It is a good idea to every few weeks turn off your router and your modem and let them rest overnight; some brands of ADSL modem have a tendency to overheat over long periods.)
Remote setup:
To set up your 'remote' computers, again follow the instructions. In most cases it involves installing a small piece of software that will run whenever your computer is on, and telling that software what connection you want to use and what its password is. You probably named your router during the setup; that should be visible on the connection list. If it isn't, you may need a larger range for your network; unless you're very near to the router, in which case you have a problem with the router's settings. You will also likely see many other connections, most of which probably have low signal strength compared to yours; some of them require passwords, probably, and some don't, allowing pretty much anyone to freeload off of their internet connection. Yours should be one of the password-protected ones; if not, you need to look at the router's settings. Once you enter the settings for your password, you should be good to go (unless you set up your remote access settings to include only specific computers; then you'll have to make sure this specific computer is on that list). The card's program will run in the background, and maintain your network connection. The router probably has a light that indicates that the wireless network is being used; that light should come on sporadically to maintain the connection, as well as any time you download anything.
Finally, answering directly the last two parts of the question, as they are not directly answered as yet.
Restricting to IP addresses: You could mean two things by this. Probably, you mean that you would like to restrict the computers that can use this network; you've already done this, either through WEP encryption, through specifying on your router which computers may use the network, or both. You don't use IP addresses for this, but Ethernet addresses (MAC addresses, aka), which are the physical addresses of your computer's network hardware rather than the IP address (which is volatile and any one computer can have multiple IP addresses at different times or situations).
However, you could also mean restricting the IP addresses that your computer can access; this is usually accomplished by software, either through Internet Explorer or other browsers (like the company I work for uses), or through third-party software that either blocks IP addresses or allows only specific IP addresses to be accessed.
Notebook network conflicts: If you mean a conflict involving multiple wireless networks in the same physical location, not a problem. The router's physical address defines the network; essentially, your wireless card's software picks out the signal that has each packet of information start with that router's code. My computer at the moment sees 3 wireless networks, mine, another encrypted one, and a third that is unencrypted. A large amount of wireless networks in the same area can be slightly negative to each one, but usually the signal strength is so low from the others that it doesn't have a noticeable affect on your network.
Your notebook *will* be able to access other networks, say if you take it to work. The same wireless card can be set up to access *any* 802.11 based network (.b, .g, or Pre-N); most wireless card's software will allow you to save several pre-set password and router combinations, and it will either automatically select which one it finds, or you might have to choose the right one, but it should be easy to do that. That's the wonderful thing about wireless networking in the modern age - basically everything is cross-compatible, even if you have an older system.
Also, these networks run on the 2.4GHz frequency; so if you have a 2.4 GHz cordless phone, you may have some (usually minor) signal interference. Consider upgrading to a 5.8 GHz telephone (which has no signal interference) if it's a problem.
That's it! Hopefully this answers all of your questions. Remember, each pice of hardware is slightly different, so always refer to the manual that comes with the hardware for item-specific setup instructions; these suggestions are only a guide to getting it right! And if you have a problem with the functionality after you've gotten it to work (days after, for example), I always suggest turning first the router and then the ADSL modem off, then in the reverse order turning them on after a 15-20 second delay. This will fix a lot of temporary connectivity problems. (But don't turn off your ADSL modem for several days after you first plug it in; it uses the first few days to figure out your individual connection speed.)
Submitted by: Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois
wireless setup between PC and iMAC
by brucefon - 3/11/05 4:29 AM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
I contacted Linksys:
How do I connect an IBM PC with Windows XP w/cable
modem to an IMAC running OS9 with USB 1.0 port?
Their response:
I apologize but we do not support the configuration you are requesting.
-----------------------
Is it possible? Linksys told me no.
Connect ing PC with Windows XP w/cable and IMac
by melmac - 3/11/05 6:17 AM In reply to: wireless setup between PC and iMAC by brucefonIt is possible to connect the two, I use a D-Link wireless cable/DSL Router. The Pc running XP is connected to cable. The Mac must have OS X installed, enabling use of the USB wireless adapter. Instructions that came D-Link will walk you through installations.
wireless setup between PC and iMAC
by joewillbid - 3/11/05 8:12 AM In reply to: wireless setup between PC and iMAC by brucefonTo get our iMAC onto our Netgear wireless network (MR814v2 router), we got a mac-compatible USB network adapter. In our case, we got a Belkin F5D6050-APL. Note that although the adapter stated that it had compatability with OS 9.0, we needed to upgrade the iMAC from 9.2.1 to 9.2.2 for the adapter to work. Although it took a little doing, the iMAC is now humming right along with the PCs on our network.
Good luck.
I do have very weak reception on the otherside of the house
by aspaprman - 3/11/05 4:49 PM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
how do you install those "repeaters" and which ones do you buy, i have all dell router and card for my notebook. thanks, Al
Repeater/range extender
by snoopy369 - 3/14/05 3:25 PM In reply to: I do have very weak reception on the otherside of the house by aspaprmanThis is in response to the various questions about range expanders ...
There are two general types of range expanding equipment: Antennas, and Signal Repeaters. For a 'weak' signal, often an external antenna is adequate. My PC at home for example, about 40 feet away but down a narrow hallway from my 802.11b wireless router, got about 30-40% reception (ok, but slow) initially, and would drop the signal occasionally. I purchased an external antenna, which connects in place of the little antenna most PCI cards come with - which stick on your computer and are about 3 inches long - with a cord, and then is placed on the desktop. They're simple to install (no software) and increase my reception to about 70%. There are various types, some stronger than others (and thus more expensive); mine is a simple Hawking Technology "Omnidirectional High Gain Antenna" for 802.11b, a 1-foot long piece of plastic with wires inside and a 3 foot long cord. There are more powerful types available, especially the directional antennas (which allow you to aim it at the incoming signal for increased range). Mine triples the incoming signal strength (roughly) and has the advantage that it doesn't matter where it is in the room (as it's omnidirectional, it doesn't have to be aimed at the signal).
The other option, and probably the one you want if you have a long distance connection (like on a farm, say!) is to couple an antenna with a Signal Repeater. I can't tell you how much range this can give you - although you probably want 802.11G or even Pre-N for a slightly further range to begin with. 802.11G claims up to 1300 feet outside range (1/4 of a mile) although I seriously doubt it actually gets that. The signal repeater should have the same range as the initial router, but re-centered on a new location, so you have two circles of coverage instead of one. What it literally does is it picks up whatever signal is coming from your router, or from a computer attached through your router, and re-sends it again at initial strength, so whatever signal loss you experience is eliminated for the new range.
What you'd want is something like the D-Link AirPlus G High Speed 2.4GHz Wireless Range Extender, or the equivalent by any of the other major vendors (Belkin, Netgear, Linksys) - might as well get one by the maker of your router as they're pretty similar, although they are cross-compatible. CompUSA, Best Buy, and other major online and in-store retailers carry these products (or order them from any major online retailer).
With the signal repeater ("range extender"), all you do is quickly set it up attached to your main computer, and then put it somewhere that you have a decent signal (and you can put an external antenna on it, if you want, to increase that range even more) towards where you want to extend the range. Obviously this depends on your set up - but on a farm you should consider putting it outside the walls of the main house, as walls significantly reduce range. You might get 1000 feet or more of range if the "range extender" is actually outside the home (on top of the roof, as another poster said).
-Joe from Chicago, IL
THANK YOU
by mmergel - 3/12/05 8:15 AM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND OUT HOW TO HOOK UP A DESKTOP TO A WIRELESS DESKTOP AND WIRELESS LAPTOP. I FOUND A COMPANY THAT I BELIEVE TO BE RELIABLE THAT WILL BE ABLE TO HOOK THIS UP FOR ME. SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE GIVEN ME SUCH WONDERFUL INFORMATION ON HOW IT'S DONE, I FEEL I WILL BE ABLE TO FOLLOW THE TECHNICIAN'S INFORMATION ON HOW HE'S HOOKING THIS UP AS WITH THE INSTALLATION THAT IS NEEDED AS I AM ALSO HAVING HIM HOOK UP AN ALL IN ONE NETWORK PRINTER.
I NOW HAVE AN IDEA OF HOW ITS DONE BECAUSE OF THIS ARTICLE. I AM 68 YRS OLD AND FOUND THIS INFORMATION VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Printer and shared documents
by Jennifer Wall - 3/12/05 1:32 PM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
I have set up a wireless network. Router in same room as my desktop, printer, scanner. Desktop in another room has internet access but cannot print to my printer, nor can we access shared documents despite having enabled sharing. Two laptops work sucessfully in getting internet access but they cannot print to my printer either, nor can we share docs.
Whats the problem?
Would be delighted to get this working.
Jennifer
File & Printer Sharing
by purpleduck - 3/19/05 6:11 PM In reply to: Printer and shared documents by Jennifer WallThis may sound like a silly question, but have you installed the Printer software on the 'networked' computers? If not,install the printer drivers on each computer you want to share the printer with, and that should resolve your problem. Good Luck!
Wireless range expanders "Out-Doors"
by bbsnooks - 3/13/05 6:18 AM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
Hello...
I'm looking for info on Range expanders.
I Live on a farm .. and would like to have a computer at the Barn.
Curently using a satalite connection from Direcway.
I had previously disregarded the idea untill I saw this about range expanders..
I'm wondering If I could put one atop the house.. If it might range 300ft?
thanks
bbsnooks
satelite connection
by marysduby - 3/14/05 6:01 AM In reply to: Wireless range expanders "Out-Doors" by bbsnooksI also live in arural area i have sat.for tv. does it cost extra for internet connection--i would think more elevation with amplifier would be the way to go--radio shack
ADSL nonsense
by 1timberwolf2 - 3/29/05 3:37 AM In reply to: Answer submitted by Joe M. of Chicago, Illinois by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
I don't know where you came up with the stuff about ADSL, but you are way off. When you have the ADSL service installed by the Telco they put a filter on the line that stops any interference with all voice phones in the house. There is no need for any splitter, period.
ADSL NONSENSE
by exhausted - 4/3/05 6:59 PM In reply to: ADSL nonsense by 1timberwolf2I think you are mistaken. I had Verizon DSL installed. If I use the line that is designated DSL for regular phone service, then each phone connected to it must have a filter between the phone and the phone jack provided by Verizon. If you use the DSL line for dialup backup for your computer or for a Fax then you do need a splitter connected to the wall jack with filter on the leg you use for dialup backup or fax. The other leg is directly connected to the ADSL Modem Verizon provided. The line itself is conditioned for DSL use. Otherwise if you don't attach any other phones to your DSL, 1Timberwolf2 is partially right, it is a direct connection between the ADSL Modem and the wall jack.
Answer submitted by Dana H. of Wayland, Massachusetts
by Lee Koo (ADMIN) - 3/10/05 1:26 PM
In reply to: 3/11/08 How to setup a wireless network by Lee Koo (ADMIN)
Answer:
Dear P. Low:
Setting up a Wireless network can be a relatively simple task if all goes well. Just to give you an idea, I have on many occasions, been able to setup a complete Wireless Network, similar to the one you described, in under an hour. Having said that, I have also had similar jobs that can take days to work out the kinks. All you have to do is visit a few networking forums to get a taste of all the potential problems you can run into. If all the computers are in good working order, no viruses and minimal problems, it should go fairly well. If you have a computer that is already giving you problems, watch out. I will explain later
Even though you asked specifically about ADSL, cable is just about the same, so I will discuss it as well.
General Wireless
When installed properly, a wireless network is terrific alternative to having to run wires throughout your home or office. Todays wireless routers and access points are more reliable, faster, easier to setup and lower cost than ever before. They still do not perform as well as a wired network when it comes to data transfer, but for most applications, they are plenty fast. I ran some tests a few months ago just to compare the time it took to move a 28 meg file from one computer in my house to another using some of the different standards versus using a wired network. If you are just accessing the internet, these numbers may not affect you, but if you are moving or backing up large files across your network, streaming video or music from one computer to another, it can make a big difference. Keep in mind that this is not a scientific study and results can and will vary depending on the distance between computer and router, the computer and router settings, the number of computers on the wireless network, manufacturer of the equipment and what type of antivirus software you are running.
Time to Copy 28mb file from one computer to another on the network:
Hard Wired Network 10/100 4 seconds
Wireless 802.11b 70 seconds
Wireless 802.11g 36 seconds
Wireless Pre-N 12 seconds
Note: The laptop to run this test was 15 feet and through one floor away from the Wireless Router and indicated that it was receiving and excellent signal.
Wireless Standards
There are several wireless standards to choose from for use in the consumer market as well as a few proprietary versions of those standards. Without getting into all the details, which I dont even know, I will try to break it down into 4 main categories and discuss the pros and cons of each. Please keep in mind that much of this is based on my own tests and experience and that every installation is different.
1. Wireless 802.11b This standard operates at 2.4ghz and has a maximum data rate of 11mbs. This is the most commonly used standard, but will be overtaken by 802.11G very soon. They can be purchased for very little money now, but unless you need are small and your computers are close together, I would pay the extra for G.
2. Wireless 802.11a This standard operates at 5.8ghz and has a maximum data rate of 54mbs. This standard is not compatible with any of the others. You can find it used in some business applications or where someone is have a lot of interference problems with other devices running at 2.4ghz. I would not recommend using this standard. There are also a few 802.11a,b,g units out there that will work on all three of these standards.
3. Wireless 802.11g This standard operates at 2.4ghz and has a maximum data rate of 54mbs. This is fast becoming the most popular standard and is compatible with older 802.11b systems as well. There are also some proprietary G units that have increased speed such as Speed Boost or Super G. These units are compatible with other b and g models as well but will only give you the speed increase when used with like cards from the same manufacturer.
4. Wireless 802.11n This standard has not been approved yet, but there are units out there called Pre-N. They operate at 2.4ghz and have a maximum data rate of 108mbs. This standard will probably take over the market due to its increase in speed and range. I have installed several Pre-N systems and I have found that the range at least doubled if not tripled and is very fast. The Pre-N units are also backward compatible with both 802.11b and g but you will not realize the full potential of this standard without using the matching cards. However, you will experience an improvement in range even when used with pre-existing B and G cards.
Common Problems, Complaints and Concerns
1. Poor Range One of the most common complaints I get is related to range. Wireless range is dependent on a large number of factors. Just to give you an idea of how varied it can be, I have had installations where a wireless laptop could not even receive a signal 20 feet away in the next room. Using the same equipment in another location, I was able to go over 100 feet. At these high frequencies, wireless signals are interfered, reflected and absorbed by all kinds of common household items. If you suspect an interference problem, I would suggest changing the default channel (usually chan 6) to either 1 or 11 to help eliminate interference from Cordless phones and other wireless networks. Here are a few of the common reasons for poor reception:
Interference from cordless phones operating on the same 2.4ghz frequency.
Interference from wireless speaker systems, baby monitors, wireless video cameras and security systems.
The exact placement of the router and receiving computer.
Other wireless networks in the building or neighborhood.
Microwave Ovens
Construction materials used in the walls or floors (metal studs, foil backed insulation, wire mesh).
Large metal objects such as refrigerators in the room or in direct path of the signal.
The type and amount of furniture in the house.
Even the number of people in the room can alter reception.
2. Frequent Loss of Internet It is not uncommon to loose your wireless connection to the internet every once and a while and may require resetting your router or modem or just waiting for it to come back on. This could be due to problems with your service provider or your equipment and is sometimes very difficult to determine where the problem lies. There are a number of steps you can take but I will have to save this for another time
3. Security Concerns You may hear a lot about security concerns associated with wireless networks. I dont know about you, but my computer does not contain the security codes to the pentagon and I dont store any of my passwords or account numbers on my computer. So if someone wants to steal this document, go for it
On the other hand, you should know that setting up a wireless network using the factory default setting has no security at all. Anyone driving by your house can access your internet connection. You will need to change some of the settings on your router to enable security features. I will get into some of the basics of this later on in this document (see Security Settings).
4. Too Slow All of the wireless standards above are typically faster that most of the available DSL and Cable connections available to home users today. So under normal internet usage and reading email, speed is not usually an issue for a few computers on the network. However if you have many wireless computers on the same network and some are performing other tasks over the network or you plan to move a lot of large files over the network, you will want to take this into consideration when designing your network.
Layout the Plan
1. One computer hardwired It is desirable to have at least one of your computers hardwired to the network to simplify setup and future troubleshooting. It is not necessary to keep it wired, but will make troubleshooting and setup much easier. You can make it wireless later if you want. If you are planning to use one computer as a server or central storage place for data and even a print server, you may want to keep this one hard wired to the network. It is still desirable to have as many computers hardwired as is conveniently possible and leave the rest for wireless.
2. Location of Hardware Placement of your wireless router/access point is critical for optimum performance. Placing it in a central location equal distance from all the receiving computers is desirable. Also, installing it above the receiving computers is generally better than below. In other words, placing the router/access point in the attic is usually better than in the basement. Installing it in the far corner of the basement and expecting to get reception on the 3rd floor at the opposite end of the house is unlikely.
3. Avoid other objects Place the router/access point away from other items in the room such as computers, wires and large objects. Move it to a location high up on a shelf away from your computer, monitor and printer.
4. Experiment First If you have a laptop with wireless capability, you can use it to test your layout prior to finalizing your plans. You will need a Wireless Router or Access Point, but you do not need to connect the router to your DSL or Cable modem to run some placement tests.
1. First hardwire your wireless router/access point to one of your computers and go into setup (check your manual) and change the SSID (this is the routers name as it will seen by other computers) to anything other than the default. If you leave the default setting for the SSID, which is usually the name of the manufacturer (linksys, D-Link, Netgear), you might pick up someone elses signal with out knowing it. I ran into this just the other day.
A new client called asking me to fix a problem they had been having for over a year, printing to a network printer in another room in the house. When I checked the computer in question, I found that it was not even on their own network. It had been receiving a wireless connection from the neighbors house next door for over a year. They were unaware of this because both houses had the same default SSID and this computer was out of range of there own network.
2. Now disconnect the Router/Access Point from the computer you used to set the SSID and move it to the location that you plan to test. Simply plug in the power to the router and walk around your house with the laptop. Go to each location of interest and check the signal strength. Each wireless card has some form of utility to view the status of your connection or you can just use the Windows indicator. In some cases they will even give you a nice bar graph (check your manual). There are several programs that you can download like netstumbler that can help survey your location. You can experiment with different locations for both your router/access point and your receiving computers. Keep in mind that sometimes simply moving the router a only a few inches away from an object can make a big difference.
Basic Network Layout
The following is a simplified diagram of a typical network setup with all the components you will need. Figures 1,2,3,and 4 all basically accomplish the same thing. Where Figure 1 shows all of the individual components and Figure 4 is a single box containing everything on one unit. You can either purchase all the components separately or purchase combo units that contain multiple components within a single box. The idea is similar to a stereo system. You can purchase a tuner, amplifier, CD player separately or purchase a complete Receiver with everything built-in.
1. MODEM ROUTER HUB/SWITCH WIRELESS ACCESS POINT
2. MODEM ROUTER(w/built in switch) WIRELESS ACCESS POINT
3. MODEM WIRELESS ROUTER (Built in Router, switch and Access Point)
4. A single Cable or ADSL GATEWAY(everything in one unit)
What You Will Need
I usually recommend purchasing all of the components from the same manufacturer. Even though most all brands are designed to work together, it may result in lower performance if you mix brands. Also, it will be a lot easier when it comes to technical support to be calling just one manufacturer for help. The same goes for mixing wireless standards, you could purchase an 802.11g router and a mix of 802.11b and 802.11g cards. It will work, but with reduced performance.
1. Cable or ADSL Modem Broadband providers usually offer the modem for free or for rent. In the case of ADSL, the modem is usually provided for you. For cable modems the rental fee is usually a few dollars per month or you can chose to provide your own. If your provider is charging a dollar or two per month for the rental, I would go with that. If they are charging more, you may want to consider purchasing your own. Based on my experience so far, I have found that it is not uncommon for the modem to start exhibiting problems after about 2-3 years. Lightning strikes and power surges could be a contributing factor to these early failures. If you purchase a modem for $60 or rent for 3 years at $2 per month, it is about a wash. But that is your choice and may be completely different in Malaysia.
2. Cable/DSL Wireless Router or Access Point You will need a Router and a Wireless Access Point or the more common Wireless Router (which contains both a router and an access point in one unit). Note: A few companies make a combination Modem, Router, Access Point and Switch all in one unit. You should also check the modem that may have come with your internet service, because some providers are starting to supply Modem/routers units. One other thing you need to check is that some providers have been known to supply a modem with only a USB connection and this can not be used for setting up this kind of network. Normally I would just go with wireless router, unless you have a situation where you need to place the access point in a different location than the router for better coverage or if you already own a router.
3. Wireless Cards for Each Computer You will need a Wireless Card for each computer that you plan to use wirelessly.
Laptops Depending on how old your laptops are, some of these my have wireless built-in. If not, you can purchase Wireless PCMCIA Cards for each.
Desktops You can purchase either Wireless PCI cards that are installed into an available PCI slot inside the computer or an external USB Wireless Adapters. I would recommend the internal cards, especially if you already have several other devices connected through USB, such as Printers, Keyboards, Mice and WebCams.
4. Surge Protectors or UPS I would make sure that the modem and router are both plugged into some form of surge protector. Better still would be to use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply). These units have a built-in battery to power your equipment in the event that the power goes out. I have seen some of the smaller units going for as little as $30.
Preparing Computers For Networking
If you plan to share files or printers between computers, you will need to check some settings. I would suggest taking the time to make sure all the computers are in good working order before attempting to network them. At the very least you need to run a complete virus scan on each computer. Depending on your configuration and settings, a single computer that is infected with a virus can spread to your entire network infecting all of your computers. I would also run a good spyware scanner on each computer as well as perform some routine maintenance such as Disk Cleanup and defrag. Perform the following tasks:
1. Check Computer Name and Workgroup Right Click on MY COMPUTER- Left Click PROPERTIES Left Click COMPUTER NAME to check the Full Computer Name and Workgroup Name. You want to make sure each computer has a different full computer name and at the same time each computer is using the same workgroup name.
2. Turn off Firewalls For the initial setup, it is usually easier to turn off or disable all software firewalls. You have one built into Windows, but you may also have others installed that may be included with Norton or McAfee internet security packages.
3. Shared Folder and Printers If you are going to share files and/or printers with other computers on your network, you can select these now.
a. Sharing Printers Select START CONTROL PANEL PRINTERS AND FAXES, Right Click on the printer to be shared and select the SHARING tab. Click the SHARE THIS PRINTER box. The Share Name box will now contain a default name for the printer. You can leave the default name or change it to whatever you want (keep the name to 8 characters). If your network has computers running anything other than Windows XP, you will need to add print drivers for the other versions of Windows (ADDITIONAL DRIVERS). Otherwise, click OK to exit. You should now see a hand under the printer icon, indicating that it is being shared. Perform the same steps above for any additional printers you want to share.
b. Sharing Files If you would like to share some of your files with other computers. Navigate to the folder or file that you want to share using windows explorer or by drilling down through MY COMPUTER or MY DOCUMENTS. Right Click the folder or file name and select SHARING and SECURITY. Check the box next to SHARE THIS FOLDER,
Setting up the Network
1. Verify Broadband Connection The first thing you want to do is connect a single computer directly to your cable modem or DSL modem. Run the setup disk that was given to you by your provider and check to make sure everything is working correctly. If your modem was already connected and running, you can skip this step. But if this is a new installation or you have moved your modem to a different location, test it with a single computer first before attempting to network.
2. Setting up the Router and First Computer Now that you have determined that your internet connection and modem is in good working order, you can move onto setting up the router and first computer. Connect the Router to the modem and then plug your first computer into the router. Run the setup disk that came with you router to get the first computer up and running. You can run the Windows XP network wizard which will prompt you to create a setup disk for the remaining computers or choose to do everything manually. Note: I would recommend not applying any security until you have all the computers up and running on the network. I would change the default SSID, so that you will recognize your network later.
3. Setting up the Remaining Wired Computers You can now proceed onto setting up each of the remaining computers. With the power off, plug in each additional wired computer and power on. Run the Windows Network Wizard or use the disk you created from before. If you plan to share any folders or printers, you can set those up as you go for each computer.
4. Setting up the Wireless Computers If your laptops came with built-in wireless networking, you may need to first turn the wireless receiver on (Most laptops default setting is off to save power, see instructions for laptop). You should see a popup that indicates that the laptop has found a wireless connection. Click on this to see a listing of the available connections. If there are other wireless networks in your area you will see them listed. Scroll down until you see your network (whatever name you used for SSID), then click on that and connect. It will ask you if you are sure you want to connect to this unsecured network. Go ahead and connect. If you are installing wireless cards, follow the instructions that came with the card to install the drivers and then follow the instructions above.
Security Settings
You should have your network up and running now without any security or firewalls running. So it is time to start setting up your security. Keep in mind that the factory defaults for wireless has Zero security. Personally, I am not a fanatic about security and I dont have anything that anyone would want, so I try not to get too carried away. But if it is a real concern, there are a number of security measures you can take depending on the type of hardware and software you have. Most Wireless Routers and Access Points have several setting you can adjust to add security to your network. I would recommend changing only one or two settings at a time and then testing your network before continuing.
1. Change all Default Passwords The first thing to do is change all the default passwords for your router or access point. The default passwords are common knowledge to most anyone.
2. Change the SSID I would change the SSID (network Name) as mentioned above, as well as you may want to turn off the broadcasting of the SSID. With broadcasting turned off, someone would have to know your network name before attempting to hack.
3. Enable WEP Depending on your router you may have the option to enable 64 bit or 128 bit encryption. If this is enabled you will need to create a code and then write it down to apply it to each wireless computer that is going to be on the network. Someone would have to guess or try every possible combination to gain access.
4. WAP The newer Wireless equipment may also offer this form of security which is considered to be more secure.
5. MAC Filtering You can also select Mac filtering to allow only those computers that have a specific Mac Address to access your network. The Mac address is somewhat like a serial number for your computer. Someone could still access your network if they knew this address.
Firewalls - After you have applied all of the security settings you want, you should now go back to each computer and turn on any firewalls that you may have. This would include the Windows Firewall or any third party firewall software. You will have to go into the firewall settings for each computer and enable print and files sharing (if needed), and you may have to enable network activity by entering in the IP address range of you network computers.
Dana H.
Wayland Computers
http://www.waylandcomputers.com
Submitted by: Dana H. of Wayland, Massachusetts
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