Welcome to the Laptop Troubleshooting Forum at CNET.
This sticky note is here to welcome you and to help you get the most from your discussions.
Getting the most from your discussion:
1. Please read those "words in red" when you post.
2. Supply details such as the make, model, age and the story.
3. Try to get the model number instead of the line into your post.
- Example. The HP dv1000 is some 50 models. The HP dv1242 is a specific laptop.
4. Never post email addresses, phone, serial, CD "numbers." These are consider private information you don't want all over the internet.
5. If your machine is in warranty, use that warranty.
More to follow in replies to this welcome.
Bob
Laptops are made of just a few "parts" of which nearly all of the are rarely repaired by owners and even most repair shops. Let's get a list of the biggest parts so you can see what's inside. This is by no means the complete list but just the major items you'll change out to get a dead laptop to work again.
1. The power brick, adapter or charger as it is called by many.
- This unit is fairly easy for us to test. We use a Volt Meter and see if that output is reasonable. So far all adapters I've seen where the power LED is out have been dead.
- Try another AC cord from the wall to the brick.
- There are no user serviceable parts inside.
2. The LCD or display panel.
- That's the part you stare at.
- Very few user replaceable parts. Usually available from the laptop maker as a FRU.
- On older LCD's there is a power supply for the CCFL tubes that is sometimes "blown." Cost ranges widely but under 50 in most cases. Cheap and easy to replace but as you know, all laptop repairs at board level will be considered advanced repair skill.
3.The main board.
- Holds very few replaceable parts. If you suspect this part try a new "CMOS or BIOS Battery" first.
- Some CPUs are soldered in. A visual is needed to know as makers may drop the socket from first to some run of manufacturing.
4. Keyboard, touch pad, sticks, etc.
- These pointing devices are usually not too hard to replace.
- Prices run under 100 dollars and usually worth it since it's cheaper than a new laptop.
- TIP: Research how to operate the flat cable retainers before you dive it. The two types I encounter at a slide version and a flip up one.
5. Drives.
- CD/DVDRW drives are going to be the hardest parts for some to replace due to how these drives fail. You will see drives that read CD/DVD fine but write on CDR media but no longer write to DVD recordable media. There are far too many failing combinations to list here but the fix remains constant. Replace the drive.
- CD/DVDRW drive failures and what to try first. Baring software issues which are not addressed here you always try the CD/DVD Lens Cleaner, unplug and plug the drive in and try name brand media.
- Drives fail and have no user serviceable parts. Be kind to the owners and help then get over that with a demo of an external drive or if they pay, swap in a new drive for a demo.
- TIP: For shop owners, never do that swap until you record serial numbers of the customer gear. You know why.
6. Cables and the other tiny bits.
- Sometimes you find a damaged cable or such bit. Difficult at times to locate so be ready to call it "totaled" if spares are not found.
7. Cards, memory, or things in sockets.
- If you find parts like RAM, Wifi cards that are in sockets then its likely you can find replacement parts.
- TIP: Don't get suckered into thinking it's a driver issue with those Wifi cards. If the owner insists, quote a hourly fee for the efforts.
- TIP 2: There are well known machines that have Wifi failures a few years out. Learn about those and present the option to remove the failed card then install a replacement PC-Card to stand in. Never warrant those machines after replacing the Wifi card as they usually fail within a few months. You could lose your business over this issue.
8. Repairing Power Jacks, and other things connecting to the motherboard.
- Yes. Do that if you have excellent staff.
- Inspect your staff's work since you will feel the consequences if they get sloppy.
---> This post may be updated as I have time to expand it.
Bob
Take a look at http://www.fonerbooks.com/workbook.htm then look over the links on the left. Keep reading. Bonus material follows.
I wrote the author and he (Morris) replied with an OK to link to his page PLUS he clued us into more content. Thank you Morris! Morris's reply follows:
"Robert,
BTW, for reasons I don't even remember at this point, my laptop material online is split across my old website and the newer site that you linked.
The newer site has all the photo procedures, the old site has the original six flowcharts that I did for the book:
http://www.daileyint.com/hmdpc/repair.htm
If you click on the miniatures, you get the full size ones, and the decision symbols on those are clickable, leading to text descriptions. I have to replace the drafts with the final flowcharts from the book someday, but it means redrawing the image maps.
Morris
Morris Rosenthal
http://www.fonerbooks.com "
A Thank You for "mike 138" who posted 8/5/09 a reply to: It's not just the touchpad for his contribution as follows.
"I have an out of warranty vaio and suffered with an over-sensitive ALPS touchpad while typing - almost as if hitting the keys was enough vibration to make the cursor jump. I was able to adjust this in the control panel > mouse > tapping > adjust sliders to suit or disable tapping.
I then done a search for some software and found this little beauty which freezes the touchpad during typing
http://www.softpedia.com/progDownload/TouchFreeze-Download-80581.html
I hope this helps some of you"
Yes, this will help quite a few folk. Let me supply the Google Code page as it has the download and source code too.
http://code.google.com/p/touchfreeze/
Bob
Many laptops have a reset feature. Some don't but as not all machines have it, here's something to try when a laptop won't start. Remember this is generic, doesn't apply to all machines but when faced with a non-starter dead laptop, why not try this?
Ready?
1. Remove all connections to the laptop. (USB, power, etc.)
2. Remove the battery.
3. Press and hold the power on button for 1 full minute.
-> Explainer. Yes, many machines only require 10 or 15 seconds but this reset instruction is generic and I've found people hold the button for 9 or 14 seconds so let's write the full minute.
4. Let go of the power on button.
5. Slip in the battery pack.
6. Plug in the power to the laptop and to the wall.
7. Do not plug in any other devices.
Try the power on button!
Good luck,
Bob
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